The first sandwich that I ordered at Caplansky’s new deli was a little underwhelming. I was expecting more flavour from the smoked meat (medium) and it was a little dry, especially when served with the house mustard made with whole mustard seeds. It was superior to a run of the mill sandwich shop but a letdown relative to the deli’s reputation. The fries were excellent, the oil had been recently changed and hand-cut potatoes were well-seasoned.
On my second visit, I ordered the breakfast special and the smoked beef bacon was delicious. It was smoky and just a little crispy but still savoury. The fact that it was beef bacon was stunning; you wouldn’t notice if it wasn’t explained on the menu. The eggs, latkes, and toast were prepared as ordered but the coffee was ordinary. Still, it would be a great meal at any time of the day.
Caplansky’s has moved to College and Spadina, into a bright and airy location. Many restaurants have exposed brick walls and the decor – framed restaurant reviews – was self-serving. Still, it’s nice to be able to look out the window and pay one tab at the end of a meal. It can’t be overlooked that you are dining in a convenient restaurant in a venue that seems suitable for dining, not loan sharks and backgammon games. The deli serves local beer, like No. 9 Indian Pale Ale and Denison Wheat Beer at reasonable prices.