Pizzeria Libretto, Part I

In Food by Brock Bourgase

Pizzeria Libretto prides itself on creating premium Neapolitan pizza with authentic ingredients prepared by “pizza artisans.” The key is the ingredients. The restaurant may win the award for Toronto’s best pie but it is not a fair comparison. The quality ingredients are a cut above what is served at Cora’s, Massimo’s, or Papa Ceo’s that there should be two separate categories: one for walk-up stands that sell slices and another for sit-down restaurants which sell more expensive pizzas.

The service is very attentive which partially compensates for the lengthy waiting period but the attitude is a bit much. Although the pizza is prepared according to a detailed philosophy, it is merely a pie. It does not reinvent the wheel or usher in a new age in deliciousity. The décor is also a bit clichéd: stripped down light bulbs and exposed wood that have appeared on Restaurant Makeover for years.

The crust is thin and expertly cooked. I tried the House-Made Sausage (with Caramelized Onion, Ontario Fiore Di Latte Mozzarella , Chili Oil) pizza but found it to be a tad too sweet, a consequence of the onion and chili oil overwhelming the sausage. The sausage may have been flavourful on it’s own but the savoury taste does not come through when laid on the pie.

During another visit, I sampled the Duck Confit (with Bosc Pear, Panna, Ontario Fiore Di Latte Mozzarella) and found it to be a massive improvement. Sweet and savoury balance perfectly. The pear slices are not too big and they don’t dominate the pizza. I thought that the duck and the pear were an excellent match and would certainly order it again.

Toronto’s best pie? Perhaps on some nights but you better get there early…